How to Tile a Bathroom Floor Around a Toilet

Tiling a bathroom floor is a rewarding project that can transform a space, but when it comes to working around a toilet, the task can feel daunting. Whether you’re a DIY enthusiast tackling your first bathroom remodel or a seasoned tile installer refining your technique, this guide will walk you through every step of the process. We’ll cover removing the toilet, preparing the subfloor, cutting and laying tiles around the toilet flange, reinstalling the toilet, and more—drawing from proven methods and practical tips. Plus, we’ll explore various types of tiles to help you choose the perfect material for your project. Let’s dive in and create a flawless bathroom floor that’s both functional and beautiful.

Why Tile Under the Toilet, Not Around It?

Before we get into the how-to, let’s address a common question: Can I tile around the toilet without removing it? While it’s technically possible, it’s not recommended. Leaving the toilet in place forces you into awkward, imprecise cuts that often look sloppy and leave gaps. Worse, it compromises stability—toilets need a solid, tiled surface beneath them to prevent wobbling, sinking, or damage to the subfloor over time due to moisture exposure. Think of it like installing expensive wood flooring in a kitchen but stopping at the cabinets instead of going wall-to-wall—it’s incomplete and impractical. Removing the toilet gives you a clean slate, ensuring tiles reach the waste outlet for a professional finish. Trust us, the extra effort pays off.

Step 1: Removing the Toilet

To tile under a toilet, you’ll need to remove it first. Here’s how to do it safely and efficiently:

1. Turn Off the Water Supply: Locate the shut-off valve near the toilet (usually behind it, near the wall). Turn it clockwise to stop the water flow. If there’s no valve, shut off the main water supply to your home.
2. Flush and Drain: Flush the toilet to empty the tank. Since the water is off, it won’t refill. For residual water in the bowl, scoop it out with a cup or ladle, then sponge up the rest. A bit of sewer odor might emerge—work quickly to minimize it.
3. Disconnect the Water Line: Uncouple the water supply hose from the tank (a wrench may be handy here). Have a towel ready for drips.
4. Unbolt the Toilet: Look for two bolts at the base of the toilet, often covered by plastic caps. Pry off the caps with a screwdriver or knock them loose, then use a wrench to remove the bolts. If there’s caulk around the base, slice through it with a utility knife to free the toilet.
5. Lift and Remove: Gently rock the toilet to break the wax seal, then lift it straight up. Set it aside (e.g., in a bathtub or on a tarp). Don’t lose the bolts or caps—you’ll need them later.
6. Plug the Drain: Stuff a wet rag into the exposed waste outlet to block sewer gases. You’ll see a wax ring remnant—remove it and plan to replace it with a new one (more on this later).

With the toilet out, you’re ready to prep the floor.

Step 2: Preparing the Subfloor

A solid, level subfloor is critical for a durable tile installation. Here’s how to get it right:

• Assess the Current Floor: If you’re working over existing tiles, they should be intact and stable. If not, remove them. For plywood (common after water damage repairs), ensure it’s structurally sound. Uneven areas, like a raised spot around the flange, need attention.
• Leveling: Use a self-leveling compound to smooth out dips or humps. Follow the product’s instructions—typically, you mix it with water, pour it, and let it set. For minor unevenness, thinset (applied later) can compensate.
• Reinforce if Needed: If the floor feels bouncy, add support underneath (e.g., wooden blocks or posts) while the waste outlet is exposed. This prevents future cracks in your tile.
• Add Cement Board: For added stability and moisture resistance, lay cement board over the subfloor. Cut it to fit with a utility knife, then secure it with nails or screws every 6 inches. Use thinset beneath to bond it and fill any small height differences.
• Optional Waterproofing: While grout can handle minor spills, a roll-on waterproofing membrane adds extra protection—especially useful in flood-prone bathrooms. Apply it over the cement board before tiling.

Before tiling, consider replacing the damaged plywood around the flange (if applicable). Cut out the affected area, install a new piece, and set the flange to the new floor height.

Step 3: Choosing the Right Tile

The type of tile you select impacts both aesthetics and practicality. Here’s a rundown of popular options for bathroom floors:

• Ceramic Tiles: Affordable, durable, and water-resistant, ceramic is a DIY favorite. It comes in countless colors and patterns, making it versatile for any style. It’s easy to cut but can be slippery when wet unless textured.
• Porcelain Tiles: A step up from ceramic, porcelain is denser and less porous, offering superior water resistance. It’s ideal for bathrooms and mimics natural stone or wood. Cutting requires a wet saw due to its hardness.
• Natural Stone (e.g., Marble, Slate): Elegant and timeless, stone tiles elevate a bathroom’s look. They’re pricier and need sealing to prevent staining, but their unique veining appeals to luxury seekers. Cutting can be tricky—use a diamond blade.
• Vinyl Tiles: Budget-friendly and simple to install, vinyl mimics other materials without the weight. It’s less common for tiling under toilets due to softer edges, but it’s an option for quick projects.
• Mosaic Tiles: Small tiles (often on mesh sheets) are perfect for intricate designs or curved cuts around flanges. They’re forgiving for beginners but take longer to lay and grout.

For most bathrooms, porcelain or ceramic strikes the best balance of durability, cost, and ease. Choose a non-slip finish and a size that suits your space—larger tiles (12x12 or 18x18) speed up installation, while smaller ones (e.g., 4x4) simplify cuts around obstacles.

Step 4: Laying Out and Cutting Tiles Around the Toilet Flange

With your subfloor prepped and tiles chosen, it’s time to plan and cut:

1. Dry Layout: Start at the room’s most visible edge (e.g., the doorway) and dry-lay tiles toward less-seen areas. This keeps full tiles in prominent spots and cuts hidden. Account for grout joints (1/16” to 1/8” spacers work well). Adjust the layout to avoid thin slivers at the edges—cut tiles on both sides if needed.
2. Marking Around the Flange: Place a tile over the nearest set tile near the flange, aligning it with the layout. Slide it to the flange’s center and mark 1/16”-1/8” outside the flange’s edge with a pencil or marker. If the flange spans multiple tiles, repeat for each, marking top, bottom, or sides as needed.
3. Drawing Cut Lines: Use a speed square to connect marks into a rough square around the flange. For a cleaner look, add diagonal cuts (1/4”-3/8” outside the square) at the corners. Precision matters, but don’t obsess over a perfect circle—the toilet base hides it.
4. Cutting the Tiles:
   • Wet Saw: Ideal for straight and plunge cuts. Cut outer edges first, then plunge-cut internal lines. Check the back—if the blade didn’t go through, mark and overcut slightly (1/4”-3/8”) from the underside.
   • Tile Nippers: For small, curved adjustments, nibble away at corners to fit the flange’s arc.
   • Angle Grinder: Faster but messier—use a diamond blade for quick, rough cuts.
   • If a supply line hole is needed, drill it with a diamond core bit and a water containment ring.
5. Test Fit: Once cut, pop out the waste section (tap lightly if it sticks) and dry-fit the tiles around the flange. Adjust as needed.

Step 5: Installing the Tiles

Now, bring it all together:

1. Spread Thinset: Mix thinset mortar per the instructions and apply it with a notched trowel. Start with a small area near the flange to avoid it drying out. For beginners, work in smaller sections.
2. Set the Tiles: Press the cut tiles into the thinset around the flange, aligning them with your layout. Add spacers for consistent grout lines. Work outward with full tiles, cutting as needed at edges.
3. Let It Cure: Allow the thinset to set (typically 24 hours) before walking on it or proceeding.

Step 6: Grouting and Finishing

• Grout: Mix grout and apply it with a rubber float, pressing it into the joints. Wipe off excess with a damp sponge. Let it cure for 24-48 hours.
• Caulk Edges: Where tiles meet walls, tubs, or other non-tile surfaces, apply silicone caulk for a watertight seal.
• Wallboard (if applicable): Install drywall before tiling if replacing it—tiling first creates an odd seam.

Step 7: Reinstalling the Toilet

With the floor tiled and grouted, it’s time to reset the toilet:

1. Replace the Wax Ring: Remove the rag from the drain and install a new wax ring (or a flexible gasket for easier positioning). These are inexpensive and available at hardware stores.
2. Set the Toilet: Lower the toilet onto the flange, aligning the bolts. Press down gently to compress the seal—don’t shift it once seated.
3. Bolt It Down: Secure the bolts through the base, tightening gradually. Don’t overtighten—ceramic can crack. Replace the caps.
4. Reconnect Water: Attach a new supply hose (steel-braided is durable) and turn on the water. Check for leaks.

Pro Tips for Success

• Work Smart: Tiling under a toilet is a weekend project if planned well. Measure twice, cut once, and keep tools handy (wet saw, speed square, pencil, etc.).
• Flange Height: Ensure the flange sits flush or slightly above the tile. Adjust with an extender if needed.
• Patience Pays: Let thinset and grout cure fully—rushing risks cracks or loose tiles.

Conclusion

Tiling a bathroom floor around a toilet isn’t just about aesthetics—it’s about building a stable, long-lasting surface. By removing the toilet, prepping the subfloor, choosing the right tiles, and mastering cuts around the flange, you’ll achieve a professional result. Whether you’re a DIYer saving on labor or a tile installer perfecting your craft, this guide equips you with the know-how to tackle the job confidently. Pick your tiles, grab your tools, and transform that bathroom floor—your perfect finish awaits!